6-Day Val di Funes Itinerary: The Heart of the Dolomites
Val di Funes is the kind of place that looks like it has been painted into existence. It is home to those jagged Odle (Geisler) peaks you see on every postcard, but being there in person, where the air is crisp and the only sound is the occasional cowbell is something else entirely.
We visited in October to catch the golden autumn shift, and honestly, seeing the larch trees turn burnt orange against the grey limestone is worth the trip alone. While the autumn colours are spectacular, this itinerary works just as well in Spring or Summer when the alpine meadows are vibrant and the higher trails are fully open. This is a 6-day loop designed for slow mornings, massive views, and proper mountain air.
Where to Stay: Our Base at Austillerhof
If you want to skip the busy feel of the larger towns and wake up somewhere that feels authentic, I can’t recommend Austillerhof enough. It’s a family-run farm perched just above Val di Funes, and it feels like a proper escape from the real world.
We opted for a spacious apartment which came with a separate kitchen and most importantly a private balcony. For the price, having a front-row seat to the Odle Mountains is brilliant value. There is something incredibly meditative about sitting out there with a coffee in hand, watching the first light hit the peaks before the rest of the valley even stirs. It’s the kind of quiet you just don’t get in any city.
The Breakfast Ritual
Whatever you do, don’t skip the farm breakfast. For €12 per person, they put out a spread of fresh local breads, alpine milk, farm-fresh yogurt, mountain cheeses, tea or coffee and granola. t’s a grand way to line your stomach each morning.
Day 1: Lago di Carezza and the Iconic Santa Maddalena View
A Detour to Lago di Carezza (Karersee)
Before checking into our accommodation, we drove to Lago di Carezza. It is rightly known as one of the most iconic lakes in South Tyrol, and seeing it in person, you can understand why. The way the jagged Latemar peaks reflect in that deep emerald water is a bit of a surreal sight. It’s a busy spot, but it’s an absolute must-see.
Explore the Lake: For more photos and my specific tips on beating the crowds at this emerald wonder, [click here for the full guide].
The Walk to Santa Maddalena
After checking in and dropping our bags, we set out on foot to find the view that practically defines the valley. It was a peaceful 45-minute walk from our farm to the Chiesa di Santa Maddalena.
We spent some time wandering through the quiet church grounds before continuing uphill to reach the famous panoramic viewpoint. Watching the sunset from this spot, and all the Autumn colours, was a proper introduction to the region. It’s one of those views that stays with you.
An Alpine Supper at Waldschenke
We ended our first evening at Waldschenke, which turned out to be a bit of a lucky timing situation. As it happened, our first night was actually the restaurant’s final night of the season.
A Seasonal Note: If you are visiting the Dolomites in October, keep in mind that many local spots begin to close for the off-season. It is always worth checking opening times or giving them a quick call to avoid a long walk to a closed door!
The Meal: Even though the menu was limited to pizza for their closing night, it was spot on. The staff were brilliant and the warmth of the place made us feel settled in straight away. It was exactly the kind of relaxed start we were looking for.
DAY 2 – Medieval Towns & Mountain Mist
It was raining in the morning, so, we swapped our hiking boots for a scenic drive through some of South Tyrol’s most charming medival towns.
Vipiteno (Sterzing)
A picturesque town famous for its colourful historic buildings and the striking Tower of the Twelve. It was the perfect spot for a mid-morning coffee break and a slow stroll through the narrow, wind-swept lanes.
Brunico (Bruneck)
Further into the Puster Valley, Brunico offers a lovely blend of historic architecture and contemporary boutiques. It’s an ideal place for a casual walk, even if you’re just ducking in and out of the shops to dodge the showers.
Brixen (Bressanone)
Our final stop, and perhaps the most beautiful. The Brixner Dom (Cathedral) and its intricate Baroque interiors are an absolute must-see. Even in the grey weather, the vibrant piazzas felt warm and welcoming. It’s easy to imagine how lively these squares become in the height of Spring or Summer.
The Rainy Day Secret: Most town cathedrals in South Tyrol are free to enter and offer a peaceful, dry sanctuary to admire the local art and architecture.
Day 3: Hiking the Adolf Munkel Trail (The Foot of the Odle Peaks)
The Adolf Munkel Trail (Adolf Munkel Weg) is easily one of the most impressive trails in the Dolomites. The track winds directly beneath the towering Odle (Geisler) spires, and because you’re walking right at the base of the cliffs, it’s the moment you properly realise how big they are and just how small you feel standing at the bottom of them.
The Reward: Geisler Alm
The path eventually opens up to the famous Geisler Alm. This is that classic Dolomites view of green meadows meeting dramatic, jagged peaks. It is the ideal spot to stop and have some lunch while you watch the clouds move over the summits. Even in the middle of the day, the light hitting the rock was something else. You do not need to wait for sunset to appreciate how unreal this landscape looks.
For a detailed breakdown of the route and all the practical car park info you need, you can check out my [full Adolf Munkel Trail Guide here].
The Evening: A Slow Alpine Supper
After a day on the trails, keep the evening simple and cosy. On your way back to the apartment, we stopped at a local Iperal supermarket to gather supplies for dinner.
The Shopping List: Pick up some pasta, cheese, sauce and a bottle of South Tyrolean red wine.
DAY 4 – The Iconic Seceda Ridgeline
Today is dedicated to the most famous skyline in the Dolomites. The jagged, wave-like peaks of Seceda are world-renowned for a reason. They are breathtaking in person.
The drive from Val di Funes to the Cristaura (Praplan) car park takes approximately one hour.
Pro-Tip: There are no toilet facilities at the car park itself. I highly recommend stopping for a coffee and a restroom break in one of the small villages along the way to ensure a comfortable start to your hike.
The Hike: Exploring the Ridge
The experience of standing on the Seceda ridgeline, with the Fermeda peaks lurching toward the sky, is something you never forget. It is a breathtaking, high-altitude landscape that feels like the edge of the world. In October, there are parts that are covered in snow which adds to their beauty.
Trail Breakdown: For the full route, including where to find the best quiet corners away from the crowds, [Read my full Seceda Hiking Guide here].
The Evening: Dinner at Viel Nois Guest House
After a few days of rugged trails and mountain air, it’s nice to swap the hiking boots for something a bit more civilised. We headed to Viel Nois Guest House for dinner.
This is a 4-star hotel restaurant that gets the balance just right. It’s elegant and modern, but it doesn’t feel overly formal. The food The wine list is equally impressive, featuring some of the best local labels from the region.
- The Vibe: This is a sophisticated, 4-star hotel restaurant that perfectly balances Alpine tradition with modern elegance.
- The Menu:The food and wine options were incredibly good. They take traditional mountain ingredients and turn them into something really special. Beautifully put together dishes that taste even better than they look.
- The wine list is equally impressive, featuring some of the best local labels from the region.
DAY 5 – The Quiet Summit of Mount Pic
Don’t let a cloudy day discourage you; in the Dolomites, the mist often makes the mountains look even more mystical. Today is about finding a quieter perspective, stepping away from the busier trails to find a summit that feels entirely your own.
The Hike: Mount Pic & Sëurasas
While many head for the famous jagged ridgelines, we opted for Mount Pic. It is a fantastic, quieter alternative that offers incredible, panoramic views of Langkofel and over Val Gardena and the winding valley floors below.
From the top of Mount Pic and the Sëurasas meadows, you gain a sense of the sheer scale of the region. While you might not see the sharp spires of Seceda from here, you are rewarded with a profound stillness and a sweeping view of the alpine landscape that most travellers miss.
Trail Notes: For a full breakdown of this quiet, scenic route [click here to read the Mount Pic guide].
The Afternoon: Aperitivo in Ortisei
After descending, head into Ortisei. As one of the most beautiful towns in Val Gardena, it is the perfect place for a post-hike stroll. Wander past the wood-carved statues and brightly coloured buildings before stopping for a classic sunset Aperitivo.
Dinner in a Barrel: Torgglkeller in Klausen
For dinner, take the short drive over to the medieval town of Klausen (Chiusa). It’s a lovely spot for a wander, but the real destination is Torgglkeller. It’s a mix of a pizzeria and a traditional restaurant, and it has a bit of a secret weapon when it comes to the seating.
The “Pod” Tables
The real highlight here and the reason you’ll want to book ahead is the pod tables. These are essentially massive, hollowed-out wooden barrels that they’ve turned into private dining booths. It’s a bit of a novelty, sure, but in the best way possible. It feels properly snug and private inside, and let’s be honest, it’s not every day you get to eat your dinner inside a giant wine barrel. It’s worth going for the atmosphere alone, and it’s a fun, relaxed way to wrap up the day after being out on the trails.
DAY 6 – A Final Detour into Apline History
The Legend of the Bear
San Romedio is famous for more than just its architecture. Just outside the walls lives Bruno, a resident brown bear with a touching story.
The Reality: In 2013, Bruno was rescued from a circus where he had spent his life in a tiny concrete cage. Today, he lives in a vast, naturalistic wooded sanctuary which is a beautiful, living tribute to the saint’s compassion.
The Myth: Legend says St. Romedio once tamed a wild bear to carry him on his pilgrimage.
In My Rucksack: Packing for the Peaks
October in the Dolomites is a mixture of all four seasons. One minute it’s breezy and cold and the next you are warm in the sun. I highly recommend “The Onion Method” which is lots of thin, high-quality layers that you can peel off or pile on as the weather shifts.
The Layering System: I wore body warmers from both UNICLO and Primark.
For my fleece, I used [The North Face Denali Jacket]. It’s a classic for a reason, it’s properly warm without being too bulky to fit under a shell. I went for the Chlorophyll Green which looked fantastic against the autumn colours, but more importantly, it kept me warm at the summits.
Your top layer needs to be a shield. I used [The North Face Diablo Dynamic Jacket]. It’s a solid, reliable rain jacket that is completely windproof and waterproof. It’s lightweight enough to shove into your pack when the sun comes out, but heavy-duty enough to handle a proper mountain downpour.
Sturdy Hiking Boots: You need something waterproof with a good grip. The trails on Seceda, Mount Pic and Adolf Munkel are slippery, especially if there’s a bit of morning frost or loose scree. I’ve been wearing [The North Face Verto GORE-TEX Alpine Mid Boots] and they have been a game-changer. They have a Vibram sole which is fantastic for gripping and the Gore-Tex lining is a lifesaver when you inevitably end up crossing muck and snow.
The Break-in Tip: If you’re getting a fresh pair for your trip, wear thick socks for that first outing and keep a few Compeed plasters in your bag just in case. Mine needed that initial hike to soften up, but once they were worn in, they were very comfortable. Now, I can spend all day in them without a second thought.
The Accessories: Bring gloves, a warm hat (beanie), and sunglasses. Even on a blue-sky day, the wind at the ridgelines is sharp. The high-altitude glare is also incredibly strong, so your eyes will thank you for the protection.
☀️ The Summer Switch: Visiting in June or July? Swap the heavy down jacket for a light windbreaker and ensure you pack high-factor SPF—the mountain sun is deceivingly strong in the summer months.