7-Day Puglia Itinerary: A Relaxed, No Car Guide to the South
Puglia is often sold as a region you must drive to see, but after spending a week there in the height of August, I can tell you that a train based 7-day Puglia itinerary is not only possible but it’s actually quite manageable. It is a much more relaxing way to see the south without the stress of navigating narrow Italian streets or searching for parking in the summer heat.
Getting Around Puglia Without A Car: The Reality Of Rail Travel
I want to be completely honest about one specific thing. If you do have a car, you will be able to access the much quieter, hidden beaches that are tucked away from the main towns. The spots and beaches that are accessible by train are definitely busier, especially in the peak of summer.
That being said, those popular spots are still completely doable with some good planning. If you are willing to get an early start and avoid the midday rush, you can still enjoy the crystal clear water and stunning views. It is a bit of a trade off, but for a stress free trip where you can actually enjoy a glass or two of wine at lunch it’s worth it.
Puglia Train Travel: A Surprisingly Reliable Way To See The South
Contrary to popular belief, the trains in Puglia were surprisingly frequent and on time. This was a bit of a shock to the system for me. I have the ‘pleasure’ of taking the train to work in Northern Italy every day, and between the constant strikes and the general chaos, a delay is usually the only thing I can rely on. Seeing the southern trains running like clockwork was a result I certainly did not expect.
The local rail network connects the main white washed towns and coastal spots perfectly well. While it is a slower way of travelling, that is exactly the point. You get to avoid the frantic pace of the roads and focus on the food and the scenery instead.
Getting From Milan To Bari: The Easiest Way To Start Your Trip
We flew from Milan to Bari, which is a very quick trip of only an hour and a half. While you can take the train to the south from Milan Centrale, you are looking at a journey of eight or nine hours and sometimes even longer. For a week long break, the flight saved us a massive amount of time.
Once we landed in Bari, we took the train straight to Polignano a Mare. It was cheap, easy, and the train station in Polignano is just a short walk downhill into the heart of the town.
Arriving In Polignano a Mare: Suitcases Versus Cobblestones
The walk from the station into the heart of the town is mostly downhill, which sounds easy enough. However, if you are someone who tends to over packer, be prepared for a bit of a battle. The uneven stone ground will fight your suitcase every step of the way. You will feel every bit the tourist as the locals watch your bags rattle and bounce across the streets.
Apartment Living And Local Rubbish Rules
If you book a place near the Chiesette di Santo Stefano, like us, or anywhere in the centre, you need to be aware that the rubbish rules are very strict. You have to categorise everything and put it out on specific days according to a set schedule.
Whatever you do, do not use the public bins for your household trash. Doing so will likely land you in a lot of trouble, especially if the residents see you. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it is part of the charm of living like a local for a few days.
Where To Stay In Polignano a Mare: A Mare Via Porto 69
Our home for the week was the A Mare Via Porto 69 Apartment. It could not have been more central, and we absolutely loved the location. You can click that link to see more photos and check the availability for your dates.
The apartment itself is massive. It felt incredibly spacious for the two of us and everything was so clean when we arrived. Our host was also great and made sure the whole check in process was smooth.
The rooftop terrace was the real icing on the cake for us. It was absolutely stunning for sunsets and was the perfect spot to watch the world go by. It was easily the highlight of the apartment.
Puglia Itinerary Day 1 And 2: Discovering Polignano A Mare
We spent our first 48 hours getting our bearings and soaking in the atmosphere of the town. The main beach here is called Lama Monachile. It is the iconic spot you see on every postcard, but the reality is that it is quite small for the number of people who want to visit.
The Iconic View From The Bridge Of Lama Monachile
Before you even step onto the pebbles, you will likely find yourself standing on the bridge of Lama Monachile. This is the ancient Roman bridge that looks right down into the cove. It is the absolute best spot to get a photo of the white houses perched on the cliffs. Even if you are not heading down to the water, you have to walk across it at least once. The view of the Adriatic sea from up there is something you will not forget in a hurry.
How To Secure A Spot At Lama Monachile Beach
If you want to actually sit on the beach rather than just look at it from the bridge, you need to be down there very early. Our host was very clear about this and told us to be there at around 8am to secure a space. By mid-morning the beach is absolutely packed, and you will be lucky to find even a tiny bit of rock to call your own.
Surviving The August Heat As A Ginger Girl In Puglia
Being a ginger girl from Ireland in the middle of Puglia during August is a bold move to say the least. Our host lent us an umbrella, and it turned out to be a total lifesaver. There are no umbrellas or sun beds for hire on this beach, so you are completely exposed to the sun. You really have to bring your own shade if you want to avoid being toasted by midday.
Practical Advice For The Polignano Shoreline
This is a rocky beach rather than a sandy one. Because of the uneven surface, you should definitely bring a thick towel or something cushioned to sit on if you plan to stay for more than an hour. You also need to keep in mind that the toilets are a bit of a trek because you have to walk all the way back up the stone steps and into the town centre.
Finding The Best Mojitos At La Casa Del Mojito
After a few hours on the rocks, we went back to the apartment, showered and headed straight to La Casa del Mojito. This quickly became our new local spot for the week. I had seen someone prepping huge batches of fresh mint outside the bar earlier that morning, and three years later, I still have not had a better drink. They have every flavour you could possibly imagine. You definitely need to try one because it is the perfect way to end a day in the sun.
Day 3: Monopoli and the Blue Fishing Boats
A very short train ride of about five minutes takes you from Polignano to Monopoli. It is so close that you barely have time to sit down before you are pulling into the station. We brought our swimming togs and towels in our day bags so we could explore the town properly before taking a dip in the sea.
Exploring the Old Town and the San Leonardo Bell Tower
The Centro Storico (Old Town) of Monopoli is a maze of narrow, white-washed alleys that feel a bit more lived-in and authentic than some of the more touristy spots. It is the kind of place where you can happily get lost for an hour.
While you are wandering, keep an eye out for the San Leonardo Church. The building itself is a late Baroque masterpiece, but the bell tower is particularly beautiful.
The Church of Purgatory: Mummies and History
For something truly unique, make a stop at the Church of Purgatory (Santa Maria del Suffragio). This church has a bit of a dark backstory, as it was built by a confraternity after the original cathedral bell tower collapsed in 1686 and killed forty people.
The main draw here is the collection of mummies kept in a side chapel. These were founding members and patrons of the church who were preserved in their ceremonial robes. There is even a small child mummy named Plautilla Indelli.
The Old Harbour: Porto Vecchio
You have likely seen photos of the Old Harbour without even realising it. This is where the iconic blue fishing boats, known as gozzi, are moored. The contrast of the bright blue wood against the ancient stone walls is stunning. It is a working harbour, so you will often see fishermen mending their nets or hauling in the catch of the day. Walking along the sea walls here gives you a great perspective of the Charles V Castle and the fortifications that have protected the town for hundreds of years.
Cala Porta Vecchia Beach
After you have worked up a sweat exploring the town, head toward Cala Porta Vecchia. This is the main beach located right at the edge of the old town. The sandy spots are quite small and fill up incredibly fast, especially in the peak of summer. Our strategy was to skip the sand entirely and head for the flat, large rocks further along the shoreline. They are much more comfortable than they look and offer a bit more breathing room. We set up camp there, ate our packed lunch, and jumped straight into the crystal-clear water. All in all it was a great day.
Day 4: Dealing With Power Outages And Food Poisoning
This was the day the authentic Italian experience caught up with me in a way I certainly did not expect. The electricity went out in Polignano last night. It was not just our apartment, but the entire town that was plunged into darkness. This meant that restaurants were operating without fridges or lights, and the ATMs were completely useless. Seemingly, this happens quite frequently in the south, so my first piece of advice is to always make sure you have a bit of cash on you.
The Fish Incident: Why You Should Skip The Seafood In A Blackout
During the power outage, I made the questionable decision to order fish for dinner. The staff assured me that even though the power was gone, they had plenty of ice to keep everything fresh. I spent the entirety of Day 4 sick in bed with a proper case of food poisoning as a result.
If the electricity goes out while you are at dinner, do not order the seafood. Stick to the bread, the pasta, and the wine instead. It is a bold move that is just not worth the risk. I was just incredibly grateful that the air-conditioning was back on by morning so I could recover in some semblance of cool air.
Spiaggia Del Grottone: The Evening Recovery Walk
By the late afternoon, I finally started to feel a little bit more like a human being. In a fit of optimism, we decided to walk toward Spiaggia del Grottone in the hopes that the salt water would somehow heal me. To find it, you just follow the coastal path past the Domenico Modugno statue.
It is a stunning area of natural rock-pools about twenty minutes north of the town-centre. Even if you are not feeling one hundred percent, it is a much quieter spot for a dip than the main beach. The water is crystal-clear and jumping in from the rocks felt like the perfect ‘cure’ after a day spent in bed. It is a much more relaxed vibe and a great way to end what was otherwise a bit of a disastrous day.
Day 5: A Day Trip To Lecce The Florence Of The South
For Day 5, we decided to take the train and head further south to Lecce. This city is famously known as the Florence of the South because of its incredible Baroque architecture and intricate golden-stone buildings. Lecce is located inland, most Italians flee to the coast during the height of August. It meant we had the stunning historic centre almost entirely to ourselves.
The Reality Of Visiting Lecce In August
It is definitely worth noting that because the locals head for the coast, a lot of places in Lecce are actually closed in August. While the city is lovely to explore, you might find that many of the smaller shops and family-run restaurants have shut up shop for the summer holidays. It creates a very quiet, peaceful atmosphere, but you just keep this in mind.
Finding Shade In The Giardini Pubblici Giuseppe Garibaldi
Lecce is a beautiful city to wander, but because it is away from the sea breeze, the heat can be quite something. To escape the midday sun, we headed for the Giardini Pubblici Giuseppe Garibaldi. These public gardens are a fantastic spot to find some shade under the trees and the sound of running water from the fountains and birds chirping is quite peaceful.
Aperitivo At Mezzo Spirito
After soaking in enough architecture, we found a spot at a bar called Mezzo Spirito for a very necessary aperitivo. It is a great little place with a relaxed atmosphere and was exactly what we needed to recharge. Sitting there with a cold drink in the shade was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. If you are looking for a bit of culture and a break from the frantic pace of the seaside towns, a day-trip to Lecce is a fantastic option that is easy to do by train.
Day 6: Visiting The Trulli Of Alberobello
You cannot have a 7-day Puglia itinerary without making the trip to see the Trulli. These iconic white-washed huts with their conical stone roofs are what most people think of when they imagine this part of Italy. It is a stunning place to see, but I will be honest and say that in the height of August, it is a bit of a challenge.
The History Of The Trulli: A Story Of Tax Evasion
There is a very practical reason why these buildings look the way they do. Back in the 17th century, the Kingdom of Naples imposed a heavy property tax on any permanent new settlements. To get around this, the local landowners ordered the farmers to build their homes using dry-stone masonry.
Because no mortar or cement was used, the houses could be quickly dismantled whenever the tax inspectors were coming.
Once the inspectors had left, the residents would simply stack the stones back up and carry on as if nothing had happened. It is a classic bit of southern Italian ingenuity that turned a tax-dodging tactic into a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Mysterious Symbols On The Roofs
As you walk through the town, you will notice strange white symbols painted on the grey stone roofs. These are not just for decoration. They are a mix of primitive, Christian, and magical signs that were intended to protect the family living inside from bad luck or the “evil eye.” Some are simple crosses, while others are planetary symbols or ancient marks. It adds a lovely bit of mystery to the streets as you try to explore the area.
Surviving The August Heat In Alberobello
While the architecture is incredible, the heat trapped between these stone buildings during August is intense. Because the streets are narrow and made of stone, they act like a bit of an oven in the middle of the day.
It is also incredibly busy during the summer months. You will be sharing the narrow paths with hundreds of other tourists, so patience is a must. If you want to see what the town feels like without the shops, you should walk over to Rione Aia Piccola. This area is still very much in the centre of Alberobello, but it is much more residential. There are about four hundred trulli here, and many of them are still homes for the local people.
Day 7: From Polignano A Mare To Bari Vecchia
We were genuinely sad to leave our base in Polignano a Mare. It had been such a brilliant home for the week, and we felt like we had finally settled into the slower pace of life there. However, we decided to take the train back to Bari to spend our final night in the city. Since we had a very early flight the next morning, we wanted to be as closer to the airport. As a result, we had the whole afternoon and evening to explore Bari.
The Pasta Ladies Of Bari Vecchia
The area known as Bari Vecchia is full of character. The absolute highlight was walking through the narrow stone streets and finding the local women sitting outside their front doors. They spend their days hand-making and selling fresh orecchiette, which is easily the most famous export of the region.
Watching them work with just a simple knife and their thumbs is a fascinating process. This ‘little-ear’ pasta is a staple in Puglia, and seeing it made by hand on a plastic table in the middle of the street is about as authentic as it gets.
A Final Taste Of Southern Italy
We ended our last night in the south with a plate of orecchiette topped with fresh pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and creamy burrata. It was simple, local, and exactly what southern Italian food should be. There was no fuss or over-complicated ingredients, just fresh flavours used well.
Sitting outside in the warm evening air for one last meal was a great way to wrap up the week. It reinforced the fact that a train-based 7-day Puglia itinerary is not just manageable, but it is actually much more relaxing way than I thought to see the region. If you focus on the food, the sea, and the local pace of life, you really cannot go wrong.
Puglian Food Favourites: Don’t Leave Without Trying Taralli
You cannot visit this region without becoming slightly obsessed with taralli. You have probably seen the plain version served in a little bowl during aperitivo all across Italy, but Puglia is where they actually come from. When you are at the source, the variety is incredible.
When you are browsing the local bakeries, keep an eye out for the cipolla (onion) flavour. You will also find peperoncino (chilli), black pepper, and even versions made with red wine.They are savoury, crunchy, and dangerously addictive. We found ourselves buying bags of them to snack on during our train journeys between towns. It’s better to find a local bakery selling them fresh, as they are miles better than the pre-packaged ones you find in the supermarket.
Three Tips For A Stress-Free Puglia Trip
Always Carry Cash: As we learned during the Polignano blackout, you cannot always rely on card machines or ATMs. Having some euros on you for dinner or small shops is a lifesaver.
Master The Train Schedule: The regional trains are brilliant and cheap, but they don’t always run late into the evening. Check your return times before you head out for a day-trip to places like Monopoli or Lecce.
Be Early For The Beach: If you are visiting iconic spots like Lama Monachile, the 8:00 am rule is real. If you get there by mid-morning, you will be lucky to find a spot for your towel.
Planning To Explore Further South?
If this 7-day Puglia itinerary has given you a taste for the southern Italian pace of life, you might want to keep heading south. Sicily is another region that is perfect for slow travel, historic cities, and incredible street food.
If you are thinking about your next trip, you can check out my Sicily Itinerary here for more tips on how to navigate the island and find the best local spots.