If you are planning a trip around Lake Como, you should make a stop in Morbegno. It sits in Valtellina, a rugged mountain valley, it is home to what I reckon to be one of the best dishes in Italy: Pizzoccheri. Whenever I’m looking for some proper comfort food, I head straight to one specific place: Ristorante Spaghetteria Capriccio. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been there now. It’s my go-to for showing people what authentic Valtellinese cooking is all about.

Authentic Valtellina Dining: A Cozy Mountain Cabin in Morbegno

The restaurant is an easy 5 to 10-minute walk from the centre. Inside, the wooden extension is warm and cosy with big windows where you can see the mountains stretching out in the distance. It’s the perfect setting to settle in for a long lunch with a jug of their house local red wine.

What is Pizzoccheri?

If you haven’t heard of it, don’t worry, neither had I before I moved to Italy. It isn’t your standard lasagna or spaghetti pomodoro. Pizzoccheri is a regional dish made with buckwheat pasta, potatoes, cabbage, and a lot of garlic, oil, and local Valtellina cheese.

It is earthy, heavy, and exactly what you want after a day in the fresh mountain air. While you can find it all over the region, Capriccio does the best version I’ve found, hands down.

What to Order: From Traditional Pizzoccheri to Fresh Seafood

Usually, in Italy, if I see a menu that tries to do everything like fish, meat, pizza, and pasta it’s a red flag. It is normally a sign of a tourist trap that doesn’t do anything particularly well.

Capriccio is the exception. I always tell myself I’ll try the grilled fish or a pizza, but the smell of the garlic and buckwheat always wins. That said, I know plenty of people who have gone for the seafood and the pizza, and the reviews are 10/10 every time.

Don’t Skip the Starter

Before you get into the mains, order the Bruschetta. It sounds simple, but it is honestly one of the best I have ever had. It’s fresh, crunchy, and the perfect way to start the meal while you wait for the main event.

A Guide to Traditional Valtellina Cuisine: Beyond the Pizzoccheri

While the Pizzoccheri is the star of the show, the food in this valley is built on a few specific, rustic ingredients that have been here for centuries. The main one is buckwheat. It’s been grown in Valtellina since ancient times, and even though other crops took over in the 1800s, there are still about 20 hectares of fields left today used for family cooking and local shops. You’ll notice almost every traditional dish here has that distinct, earthy buckwheat base.

Local Specialities You Need to Try

If you are looking to round out your meal at Capriccio, or if you’re exploring more of Morbegno, here is what to look for:

Bresaola della Valtellina PGI: This is the region’s most famous export. It’s lean, air-dried beef seasoned with salt and spices. At Capriccio, they serve it as an appetiser with a bit of fresh lemon to squeeze on top. It’s simple, light, and just the job before a heavy main course.

Sciatt: These are irregularly shaped buckwheat fritters filled with melted Casera cheese. They don’t actually serve them at Capriccio, but they are a staple in most traditional trattorias in the area. If you see them on a menu elsewhere in Morbegno, trust me and order them (they are delish!).

Polenta Taragna: Forget the plain yellow polenta you see elsewhere. In Valtellina, it’s a rustic mix of cornmeal and buckwheat flour, whipped up with a generous amount of local butter and cheese.

Taròz: Another classic comfort dish made of mashed potatoes, green beans, and onions, all heavily seasoned with (you guessed it) more butter and local cheese.

The Best Local Wines to Pair with Pizzoccheri

To wash all that buckwheat and cheese down, you really want to go with a local red. The famous wines from this valley are produced from the Nebbiolo grape, though if you’re looking at a local menu, you’ll see it called Chiavennasca that’s just the local name for the grape variety here. Valtellina Nebbiolo is more elegant and earthy. It’s just the job for balancing the richness of the meal without overpowering the food.

When you’re looking at the wine list, keep an eye out for Sassella or Inferno. These aren’t different grapes; they are just the specific growing zones (or neighbourhoods) along the valley that produce slightly different flavours. You really can’t go wrong with either. If it’s a particularly chilly day and you want something with a bit more of a kick, ask for a Sforzato (or Sfursat); it’s made from partially dried grapes.

Planning Your Trip: When to Visit Morbegno

If you can, I’d highly recommend timing your trip to coincide with Morbegno in Cantina. It’s a massive local event where the town opens up its historic wine cellars to the public for tastings. It’s easily the best way to see the town and really get a feel for the Valtellina wine culture.

The event usually takes place every year on the last Saturday and Sunday of September and the first two Saturdays and Sundays of October.

I’ve put together a [full guide to Morbegno in Cantina here], covering everything from where to buy tickets tickets to which cellars are actually worth the walk. If you’re planning a trip to Valtellina during those weeks, it’s a proper day out and well worth a read.