Sestri Levante: The Best Italian Riviera Base (October vs May)
I’ve been lucky enough to visit Sestri Levante twice. Once in late October and again in May. It’s a place that completely changes with the seasons. It doesn’t matter if you’re after a romantic, quiet escape or a vibrant beach holiday; the town manages to pull off both. If you’re looking at a trip to the Italian Riviera, here is why Sestri Levante is likely the best base you’ve never thought of.
Visiting Sestri Levante in October: An Autumn Escape
October in Sestri Levante feels like a well-kept secret. The frantic summer rush has faded and the town has settled back into a steady, local pace. It felt like we had the place to ourselves. We were so lucky with the weather, it was in the 20’s. There were even Italian people lying out on the beach trying to get some sun.
The Showstopper: Baia del Silenzio
Regardless of the time of year you visit, Baia del Silenzio (the Bay of Silence) is the heart of the town. The first time I saw it, I couldn’t believe how something this beautiful could be real. You have the classic pastel buildings curving right around the water, and because the bay is so sheltered, the water stays calm and turquoise.
The Crowds: October vs May on the Sand
One thing that really stood out between my two trips was the sheer difference in the crowds. In October, we practically had the place to ourselves. Coming back in May was a completely different story. While the bay was just as beautiful, the beach was packed. There was barely any space to put a towel down, let alone find a quiet corner.
If you’re after a bit of breathing room, October is easily the winner, but if you don’t mind a bit of a squeeze for the sake of the spring sun, May is still a great time to visit.
Sunset and Aperitivo in the Baia del Silenzio
While the sun actually sets over the Baia delle Favole (the larger beach on the other side of town), the Baia del Silenzio is, for my money, the best spot to watch the sky change colours at sunset. You get these incredible pink and orange hues reflected over the water and the pastel houses.
It’s the perfect time to grab an aperitivo, find a seat, and just people-watch. There are plenty of options along the water, but here was our experience across the two seasons:
Citto Beach & Bar: We went to Citto in both October and May. It is located at the end of the left hand side, on a deck that sits over the water. It’s a great spot to soak in the view. A glass of wine here will set you back about 7€. Now, if you’re over on your holidays, that might sound fine, but if you’re living and working in Italy, that’s a bit steep for a standard glass. You’re definitely paying a “view tax” here, but for an hour or two at sunset, the setting on that deck is hard to argue with.
Marina di Levante Beach Bar: We also tried to stop in at Marina di Levante. Despite there being plenty of empty tables when we arrived in May, the staff were quite short with us and insisted we couldn’t sit down without a booking.
It was a bit of a contrast to the more relaxed service elsewhere, but it’s a good reminder of how much the town’s personality changes once the season kicks in. In May, these spots get a lot busier, and they can get a bit “precious” about their tables even when they’re empty. If you want to avoid the cold shoulder, it’s worth booking ahead in the spring—or just sticking to a more welcoming spot like Citto.
How to Spend Your Time in Sestri Levante
Explore the Two Bays
Sestri Levante is unique because it sits on a peninsula, giving you two completely different coastal experiences within a few minutes walk of each other – Baia del Silenzio and Baia della Favole.
Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fairies): This is the larger of the two bays and where you’ll find most of the activity. If you’re visiting during the peak summer months, this is where you’ll find the beach clubs. It’s the place to go if you want a sunbed, an umbrella, and someone to bring you a drink, but make sure to get down there early as it does get very crowded.
The Hike to Punta Manara: Best view of the town from above. It’s roughly 3km each way and starts right in the middle of the Sestri. To find the start, look for a narrow alleyway called Vico del Bottone, tucked off the main pedestrian street, Via XXV Aprile. The path is well-marked, so you won’t spend your time staring at a map. There are no water fountains, so make sure you bring your own water and a decent pair of walking shoes.
The Perfect Cinque Terre Base: Which is one of the many reasons to stay in Sestri Levante. It’s incredibly well-connected, which makes it a stress-free base for exploring the region. You can hop on a direct train and be in any of the five villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, or Riomaggiore) in around an hour. It gives you the best of both worlds: you can dive into the beauty of the Cinque Terre during the day, then retreat to the much quieter, less crowded Sestri Levante for dinner.
Read More: Check out my [Cinque Terre Itinerary] for the best way to plan your day trip.
Where to Stay in Sestri Levante: Hotel Miramare
If you’re looking to treat yourself, Hotel Miramare is the standout choice. It sits directly on the Baia del Silenzio, and having the water quite literally on your doorstep is what makes this place special. It has an intimate, boutique feel that’s hard to find in some of the larger coastal resorts.
The Breakfast View
The real highlight of the stay was breakfast. The selection is excellent, with more variety than you’d typically expect, but it’s the setting that wins. Each morning, we ate right by the window looking out over the stillness of the bay. Starting the day with that view, before the town fully wakes up, was total bliss and a proper way to ease into the morning.
The Wellness Area: The Cave Pool and Spa
Aside from the location, the hotel has a gorgeous beachfront spa.
The Spa Includes:
The Cave pool: The standout feature and it’s heated.
Thermal Facilities: A Finnish sauna, a Turkish bath, Mediterranean bath and a Salt room.
You can book 2-hour slots that are €35 each for hotel guests and €40 for non-guests.
Since Sestri Levante is a popular base—especially in the spring—it’s worth checking the availability for your dates well in advance. You can see the current rates and secure a room at [Hotel Miramare on Booking.com]. I’d stay here again in a heartbeat!
Visiting Sestri Levante in May: The Start of Summer
By May, Sestri Levante has well and truly woken up. The restaurants are buzzing, the beach clubs have their umbrellas out, and there’s a real sense of energy in the air. It’s the time of year when the town feels exactly like the classic Italian Riviera you see in the pictures.
Where to Stay in May: Grand Hotel Villa Balbi
When I looked at coming back in May, the prices at the Miramare had shot up quite a bit for the season. I wasn’t quite ready to pay the premium, so I booked Grand Hotel Villa Balbi instead. I was pleasantly surprised, it’s a different experience, but a very solid one.
The History and the Grounds
The hotel is an impressive historic villa right in the centre of town. The highlight is definitely the gardens; they are beautifully kept and offer a bit of a quiet retreat from the busy streets outside. It has a grand, old-world feel to it that makes the stay feel special.
Breakfast, Aperitivo and a Pool in the Gardens
The standout feature here is the garden. It’s an impressive, quiet space that feels a world away from the busy streets just outside the gates. One of the best bits is that they move everything outdoors during the warmer months.
Being able to have your breakfast in the gardens every morning is the ultimate start to each day. The restaurant and bar also move outside, so you can settle in for an aperitivo or a quiet dinner surrounded by the greenery. They also have an outdoor pool that would be ideal to cool off in, in the summer.
Artisan Markets on Your Doorstep
If you’re staying here, keep an eye out for the local markets that set up in the street to the left of the hotel. They aren’t your typical tourist stalls; you’ll find handmade jewellery, clothes, and local art. There was a man who had a stall selling his beautiful paintings. I even ended up buying one of the Baia del Silenzio for only €25. Bring cash as most stalls only take cash.
I’d book this spot again just for the garden breakfast alone. You can see the latest rates and more photos of the villa [Book Grand Hotel Villa Balbi on Booking.com]
October vs. May: Which Should You Choose?
At the end of the day, Sestri Levante is one of those rare spots that manages to be beautiful at any time of the year. It feels like a real, working town rather than a tourist set. However, your choice really comes down to the pace you’re after:
Choose October if: You want a romantic, slow-paced retreat. It’s a decent result if you want to hear the waves rather than the crowds and get some serious miles in on the hiking trails without the heat.
Choose May if: You want the full-throttle Italian summer experience. The town is buzzing, the restaurants are lively, and the weather is spot on for a proper day at a beach club.
The Verdict: If you want the “Bay of Silence” to actually be silent, go in October. If you want the vibrant energy of the Riviera, May is your best bet.
Plan Your Perfect Ligurian Trip
Ready to head into the Five Villages? Here is my [Full Cinque Terre Itinerary] starting from Sestri Levante.
If you’re planning a longer stint in this part of Italy, Sestri Levante fits perfectly into a wider trip. You can see how I’ve mapped out the rest of the region in my [Full Ligurian Coast Itinerary].